Critic: Be Patient with Osteria Mattone

The AJC's John Kessler has done a full-fledged review of Osteria Mattone, Roswell's latest restaurant sensation.

It's the latest in a wave of rustic-style Italian regional eateries to pop up in the metro Atlanta area, and Kessler says the Canton Street effort by the Table & Main tandem of Ryan Pernice and Ted Lahey is "honest and appetizing."

But Kessler also said that while the ambience and wine list at Osteria Mattone are first-rate, some of the entrees need work. 

A dish of porchetta (roulade of pork shoulder) is too fatty, and its "preparation seems to have been outsourced to Sbarro."

Overall, Osteria Mattone's menu, Kessler wrote, is "a well curated grab bag" with "a few tonal inconsistencies."

A dessert of caramel budino, he writes, hits the right spot, and "speaks of good things to come from this restaurant."

The full review is behind a paywall; here's more on Osteria Mattone from Roswell Patch, the Roswell Neighbor and Atlanta Eater.